Dave Update Classic: Santa Monica
Oh, and just to remind everyone: one of the gimmicks of my journey is that I tried to steal an unread, unloved book from every city along my route.
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CHAPTER TWELVE
I-10 dead-ends at the Santa Monica pier. As soon as I got there—and there’s plenty of parking if you’re willing to pay eight bucks—I walked up and down and called everyone on my cell phone, A to Z, to crow about it. But I forgot something: it was the middle of the day, and most of my friends have actual jobs. So I only got a hold of three people. And even then, I hadn’t really thought through the whole thing. Our conversations went something like this:
ME: Hey, friend! Guess where I’m calling from! The Santa Monica pier! I finished my trip! I’m done!
FRIEND: That’s great!
ME: Yeah! It’s really pretty here. It’s like . . . well, it’s hard to describe. But it’s great.
FRIEND: That’s great!
ME: Yeah!
(Long pause.)
FRIEND: So when do you get back into town?
ME: Depends. Can you loan me some money?
If Santa Monica were synonymous with the Santa Monica pier, I would have loved it. And in fact, that’s apparently how a lot of other people feel, too, because at the pier I constantly ran into some of the happiest, most polite homeless people I’ve ever met. (Of course, maybe they weren’t all homeless. Maybe some of them were merely surfing enthusiasts who’d forgotten to shower.) Santa Monica is home to “The Original Muscle Beach” (as a sign informs you), it boasts not only tons of little touristy kiosks (including the same caricaturists and I’ll-write-your-name-in-flowers-and-dolphins calligraphers that clog Broadway and 42nd Street), but also some real carnival stuff like target galleries, ring tosses, and—of course—a vintage Ferris wheel.
But what I liked even more was that there are so many chess players in the area that the concrete park benches all have chessboard patterns painted right on them. I can’t decide whether the presence of a whole lot of chess nerds keeps crime down (raising the intellectual class of the place) or actually increases the risk (since it would seem to be a perfect virtual ATM if you’re a bully looking for lunch money). In any event, it probably attracts a higher class of addict. And it was so pleasant there that there were children everywhere and yet I didn’t find them annoying. Maybe it’s something in the water. If it is, they should pipe it in at Disneyland. I stayed as long as I could at the pier without spending any actual money, but eventually I got tired and decided, right around four, to venture into the city proper. That way, I could decide whether to write an entire separate chapter about Santa Monica, or just pretend that Santa Monica was a form of Los Angeles, and fold them both into one end-of-journey chapter.
The city of Santa Monica is flat-out gorgeous, but unlike the pier, which as a pleasantly off-kilter rough-and-tumble scuzzy tinge to it, the actual city is gorgeous in the scary way that a perfectly coiffed, expensively dressed woman can be scary. You sit there and think, “Damn she’s amazing. I wonder what going out with her would cost me?” The same kind of low-level tension informed every experience Ihad in Santa Monica: I would marvel at the palm trees, the clean fish-free ocean air, the room-temperature weather, and yet in the back of my mind I’d be thinking, “At some point I’m afraid I’ll have to buy gas here.” (NOTE: It seems almost quaint to say this now, but at the time, I was traveling across the country with gas everywhere at the then-unheard-of rate of $2.50 a gallon. And it was in Santa Monica that I first saw gas at $3.05. I was so thunderstruck that I actually called my roommate to share the sticker shock. O tempora! O mores! Perhaps a moment of silent remembrance is now in order.)
Surprisingly, I found myself with a writing problem, in that Santa Monica didn’t have any character per se. It’s like the capitalist version of Tolstoy: All happy cities in California and Florida tend to look alike. I needed an angle, and so it struck me that, for literary purposes, it might be good to look up Saint Monica, the town’s namesake. What was she famous for? What was she patroness of? If nothing else, it might give me a consistent metaphor to work with. If she turned out to be the patron saint of grapes, I could stop in a wine bar and throw out subtle references to “vintage” and “ripening” and maybe even “sulfites.” If she were the patron of bears (do they have a patron? Is there a Saint Teddy?), I could describe the city as “hugging” the shore or call my sleep a form of “hibernation,”and in so deploying brainy metaphor, creep in adjectival increments ever closer to a Pulitzer.
Unfortunately—as I found out in a bookstore that specialized in art books, which tells you something about the inhabitants’ disposable incomes—it turns out that Saint Monica is known for almost nothing except being married to St. Augustine’s good-for-nothing dad. She is, therefore, the patron saint of alcoholics, domestic abuse, and unhappy marriages. I suppose I could have come up with a few jokes, but the sun was so warm, the streets so clean, and I was so happy to have ended my journey that I just couldn’t work up enough energy to be an asshole.
What I came away with, instead, is this vaguely interesting fact: Saint Monica was Saint Augustine’s mom. What a great coincidence, since I’d started my journey in Saint Augustine! So it was like I’d come full circle . . . or had gone backward in time . . . or had crawled crabwise along Saint Augustine’s umbilical cord . . . or something. The more I tried for an elegant metaphor, the more it eluded me. I took out my notebook and wrote incomplete sentence after incomplete sentence, hoping something would click: “I have traveled from the son to the mother, and therefore . . .” “Just as St. Augustine is the offspring of St. Monica, and was converted (he said) by her fervent prayers, so too . . . ” “Having come from one city to another city with a related name, I realize . . .” Finally, after trying for months to assemble a meaning out of this coincidence, I settled on a perfect conclusion: In my journey, I have moved from one saint to another, which might be meaningless, or it might be a sign of the ways in which religion is literally part of America’s landscape. Rather than attempt to explain what it means, the important thing is to recognize that this coincidence has many potentially meaningful features, and leave it at that. Don’t define things; simply embrace the mystery.
Yes, it’s a cheap way out. But it has the rhetorical structure of wisdom.
But at the time I hadn’t figured out how to end the story, so after I left the bookstore, I shrugged and decided that the best thing I could do was simply take a portrait of myself next to the statue of Saint Monica that overlooks the beach there. I was so well-behaved, I didn’t even pretend to grab her breasts. (Besides, I figured she’d already suffered enough abuse.) Actually, she doesn’t have breasts which tells you everything about Santa Monica that you need to know. I should have paid more attention.
I asked around for a nice place to have a relaxing drink with a view, and two bookstore clerks and a bartender all encouraged me to try the Casa del Mar hotel nearby. After struggling to find parking—a situation I’m hardened to now, after so many years of college—I got as gussied up as I could manage and walked, notebook in hand, through its august doors. (Note: I just learned that if you use the word “august,” Microsoft Word will automatically capitalize it unless you go back and squash it down into lowercase. And even then, the resulting adjective will be permanently underlined to warn you that it’s not really a word. It’s fun to feel smarter than a computer.)
I swear I don’t know if the Casa del Mar is actually old, or if its owners just paid extra for distressed wainscoting. What I remember about the Casa del Mar is that I hated it instantly, because it typifies the worst form of conspicuous consumption. It’s all expensive wood, high ceilings, vast clear windows, and yet—despite having not one, but two absurdly cauldron-sized fireplaces—not an ounce of real human warmth. It was as if every table, every shelf, every cummerbund on every rigid waiter were there to shame you into thinking, “Christ; I should have driven a better car.” There was a band playing on the highest deck, but the room seemed to have negative acoustics—which might have been just as well, since the band’s litany of jazz standards felt suspiciously free of grit. I bought a rum and coke anyway, since I’d come all this distance and parking had been such a pain. But after the obligatory tip I wound up spending as much on a Bacardi and coke as it would have cost to buy an actual bottle of Bacardi and a liter of coke. I spent three weeks in Manhattan and never spent that much on a single drink. They should have at least let me keep the glass.
But I was almost willing to forgive Casa del Mar for its supercilious Casa-del-Mar-ness when I saw, upon entering, that the entire left wall was nothing but bookshelves. Jackpot! But then I looked closer at the titles, and they included the following:
Haandbog for Nutidshjem
Gyrithe Lemche Edwardsgave I-III Bog
Vor Tids Leksikon, 7-8 Dragt-Frankrig
A.J. Cronin’s Himmeriges Nogler
Og Bag Dem Synger Skovene by Trygve Gulbranssen
And so on. Some author named Sally Salminen had two books represented: Spor Pa Jorden, and Katrina, which was the first familiar-sounding word I read in the whole collection. Ninety percent of it was some language (I’m thinking Dutch) devoted to various forms of encyclopedias and other meticulously indexed documents.
It wasn’t all foreign—at least, not technically. But the few English books I found might as well have been in Sanskrit, since their titles included Archives of Otolaryngology LXXXVI and my favorite, California Jurisprudence Vol. 16—Lewdness to Mayhem. But not even lewdness and mayhem can survive a lawyer’s dessicating killing jar, so I passed even on this. What’s the opposite of “pleasure reading?” Everything at the Casa del Mar. I bet even their Gideon Bibles were in something unpleasant, like Ugaritic.
Desperate for something to steal, I noticed with some joy the title Studs Lonigan, but it, like everything else, was in this odd Nordic language, and frankly hadn’t been worth translating in the first place. (If all this had come from the same estate sale, the world has lost one very dull Swede.) This would seem to epitomize the nutrition-free environment of Casa del Mar: hundreds of books, but nothing to actually read. You really were supposed to content yourself by judging them on their covers.
Since Katrina was the only one of these that seemed to be a novel’s title in actual English, I took a gamble and opened it to the first sentence, which began as follows: “Katrina var den aeldeste af tre Sostre, Datter af en Bonde i det nordlige Osterbotten . . .” Although I could almost make sense of it (she was the eldest of three daughters and daughter of a bail bondsman and a nerdy blender’s button . . .) I decided I colde du battar.
And then finally, off in the ill-used side section of the lounge (where actual comfortable-looking chairs had been roped off for some reserved party that hadn’t yet shown), I found a downmarket series of books that actually had English titles, and whose book jackets had the bad sense to clash with the color scheme. Unfortunately, almost none of these were novels. The interior decorator had apparently favored cookbooks, gardening guides, and photographic travel pieces. What’s worse, the few novels I uncovered weren’t exactly obscure. The selection included hardback versions of Cujo, Beloved, and a little thing called The Da Vinci Code, which I hereby declare is no longer an actual book; it has become the literary equivalent of moss.
But I finally found something to steal. It wasn’t a novel, but it was fitting: Religion and Theology, Volume 4 in some Encyclopedia Britannica series of readings from The Great Books, dating from 1961 and edited by Mortimer J. Adler. It has commentarieds on readings from the Greeks, from St. Augustine, and on down through history, and followed each section with a whole series of pesky questions (“Does Montaigne look on ‘divine law’ as a yoke or a joy?” “What are two alternatives to religion suggested by Goethe’s verse?”). The only thing it doesn’t have is the actual readings—the actual Augustine, Goethe and Montaigne. That’s how they get you, I guess: take the book for free—but using it is gonna cost you.
So I took it for free. And you know how I stole it? I picked it off the shelf and walked out, reading it all the way down the stairs and out the door. I suppose if anyone had stopped me, it might have resulted in a confrontation that would have discommoded the tonier class of guest. They were probably as happy to see me go as I was to leave; as I crossed the threshold, I ground my feet in order to get dust back on them.







